We crossed the Dölma Chu by a bridge, and soon saw the north side of Shama Ri, east of Kailash, coming into cloudy view. This sharp jagged ridge represents the 18 Hells: 8 Cold, 8 Hot, and 2 Trial Hells. Its treacherous appearance serves as a sober reminder to pilgrims that hell exists and perhaps looks like this. A short truncated glacier with a small but distinct terminal, lateral, and medial moraines descends from the rocky eastern arm of the north face of Kailash, down through the Pölung Valley between Avalokiteshvara and Manjushri.